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HOME >>Travel Within Russia >>Print Version
IZBORSK

By
 Olivia Molis
Published: 1st June 05

     Menacing fortifications of Izborsk, built for defense purposes, loom down from the hillsides, casting their shadow over the ancient trade routes that ran from east to west. The town is located 30 kilometres west of Pskov. For those who have visited the place, it’s no longer simply a name on the map. Izborsk is a real mystery; a rare union of human creation and natural landscape. Sky, water, landscape and humanity, are joined together. The 15th century stone fortress grows out of the hillside and looks as if it has been there for ever, with all its meadows, trees and greenery. The natural creations of Izborsk’s valley harmonically blend with the manmade structures: Truvor’s ancient settlement, numerous chapels and the Malsky Monastery. Russian history began here. This is the place where the first ever meetings with other nations took place and where different cultures, traditions and beliefs intertwined with one another. Izborsk is a guardian of history’s secrets, a stone city on a ‘bird’s mountain’ - Zheravya or Zhuravlinaya (Crane) Hill. For many artists and writers, this land has been a source of inspiration.
     According to the chronicles, Izborsk is older than Pskov. It first appeared in writing in 862. A German poet, Zukhenvart, who participated in the siege of the town in 1349, referred to Izborsk as “Iron Town”. There were numerous attacks on the present Izborsk fortress and it was transferred from its original location to the larger neighbouring Zheravya Hill, where it still stands today. The fiercest attacks were in 1341, 1349, 1368 and 1480. However, not a single one was successful, until the German invasion from 1941-44. The well-preserved fortress is a rare memorial to ancient Russian military architecture. The total length of the fortress walls is 625 metres. They are made from limestone slabs. The six towers, aptly named, “Watchtower” (Vyshka), “Dark tower” (Temnushka), “Kukovka”, “Rowan Tower” (Ryabinoka), “Bell Tower” (Kolokolinaya) have their own interesting military and religious decor.
     The stonecrafted St. Nicholas Cathedral, equal in age to the fortress - stands by the main gates. It is near the wall and could, in case of an attack, have been used as an additional fortification to conceal the city’s defenders. The Church of St. Sergius is also situated near the entrance to the fortress. It was built in the 17th century. The belfry above the doorway faces the main gates. Inside St. Sergius’ Church, the Pskov Museum is displaying an exhibition of archeological discoveries made in Izborsk. Truvor’s ancient settlement, his tomb and the secret passage from the fortress to the water springs, are full of legends about bloody battles with German knights, epic Izborsk heroes arising from their tombs to defend their fatherland, as well as the Truvor’s gravestone, which is said to have the power to heal mortally injured Russian warriors.
     Today, the area is very calm. Nothing can interrupt the quiet contemplation of this architectural “shining colossus”. Only the imagination can recall the bellow of cannons, the whizz of arrows, the blows of battering-rams, the screams and groans of the fighters. The giant of war has gone to sleep.
     Another distinctive feature of Izborsk is the Slavonic Saint Springs, famous for their crystal water. According to legend, each spring from the cascade bestows youth, strength, love, wealth, beauty and other life benefits on the people who drink from it. However, beware! One of the springs brings bad luck.
     The Malsky Monastery lies on the shore of Malsky Lake, about four kilometres from Izborsk. The solitude of this place is truly poetic. The glassy surface of the lake, the lush shrubbery, the birds singing and the gentle murmur of the streams inspire a special mood of peace and harmony. A picturesque village cemetery can be seen on the slopes of the hillside. It belongs to a monastery founded in the 15th century by monk Onufriy. It was destroyed by Hungarian troops and reconstructed in 1730. The Sety people, an ethnic group of Estonians, now inhabit the outskirts of Maly. They speak Estonian, yet their traditions and folk dress are closer to Russian and Byelorussian culture. At the foot of the monastery, there is a spring, which has been considered sacred since the Pagan time. Pagan festivities were held here. Trees were decorated with multi-coloured ribbons, people danced and brought ill relatives for healing. The Christmas Church (the most ancient temple of the monastery) was later built on same spot as the Sacred Spring. There are always fishermen on the lake, standing on boats, made from tree trunks. These are the same boats that were used thousands of years ago.
     Even today, inhabitants of Izborsk come across the shards of ancient utensils, jewellery, arrow-heads and pieces of armour.

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