The fortresses, built in the Middle Ages on the north-west borders of Russia form the stone shield of Russ (ancient Russia): Ivangorod, Yamburg (Kingisepp), Koporie, Korella (Priozersk), Oreshek, Old Ladoga. All of them were constructed in the somber time of Russian history during the epoch of the Tatar yoke. At that difficult time, the western enemies of Germany, Sweden, and Denmark tried to capture Novgorod’s lands (one of the republics of Russ, set in this area). It is really impressive that the country managed to create the fortified cities in the midst of a struggle on both the European and Asian fronts.
The erection of the northern stone fortifications marked the rising of Russ from the ashes of the Tatar’s conflagrations.
At the end of 15th century the Novgorodian lands became a part of Moscow’s State and some major reconstruction works were carried out in the fortresses. The powerful gun towers, thick walls with embrasures not only for upper but for lower battles and other fortifications appeared as a response to the creation of new fire-arms.
At the start of 17th century, the northern regions of Moscow’s State fell under the power of the Swedes for almost a century. In 1702 the forces of Peter the Great started the liberation of originally Russian lands. Peter was victorious and after winning back the lands, he established St.Petersburg stating that Russia now had a firm “foot” by the sea. Now you can admire the treasures of the Medieval history while visiting the ‘Pride’ of Peter the Great.
IVANGOROD
“Two ancient fortresses on the opposite banks of the river watch each other in the still silence of history…” Russian Ivangorod fortress and Estonian Narva castle are unique constructions. Nowhere else in the world will you find two adversarial strongholds, different forces of East and West, with just 150 meters between them. It is the length of the “Bridge of Friendship”. Each is within range of cannon balls fired from the opposing stronghold.
Ivangorod was founded as a fortress
in 1492 on the decree of Grand Duke Ivan III on the right bank of the River Narva, on the steep slopes of Devichiya Mountain (Maid’s Mountain), on the Peninsula. It is a very picturesque and difficult to access place. The mountain is washed by the fast Narva River from 3 sides and from the fourth one is surrounded by a deep ditch. The fortress was built to confront the Livonian knights who then occupied Narva city. Ivangorod became an outpost of Russia’s western territory, on the border with Livonia. According to legend, the architect who built Ivangorod was blinded by the Tsar so he would be unable to build another fortress like it. At the beginning, the fortress was quite small, almost one-tenth the size of the present one, and square. Another legend says that one horse’s skin was cut on narrow fascias, then joined in one line and used to determine the size of the future fortress. The inhabitants then called Ivangorod ‘the city of the horse’s skin’. Over many years, however, it was added to and expanded.
The Peninsula is quite small and it is completely occupied by the present huge fortress, which is divided into 4 parts. Two, the most important ones, are the tetragon tower and the Big Boyard’s town. The white tower of the Narva castle ‘High Herman’ stands out for miles and the peculiarity of the protective wall of the Russian fortress is determined by the height of the erection on the opposite side of the river. From the leftbank people wanted to spy on what was happening in the Big Boyard’s town and on the right bank people wanted to hide from the ‘curious eyes’ of the tall neighbor-enemy. Thus the tower grew all the time and immediately after that a large wall was raised as well.
The complicated and majestic ensemble of Ivangorod was completed a century after it was founded. It developed from a small fortress into a complex defensive structure. It was invaded by Swedes and Germans during its history. The Nazis during their retreat in 1944 shelled the towers of the fortress for a week but its powerful fortifications still stand opposite Narva’s castle. Today Ivangorod is under restoration. The renovations were started by Estonian specialists and then continued by St.Petersburgs restorers. The fortress is currently an architectural monument of the 15th-16th centuries and is part of Ivangorod’s museum complex, which also includes an art gallery and a museum of military architecture. The Ivangorod Art Museum collections are exhibited in the former private house of a local merchant and also include artifacts and archival materials documenting the history and traditional culture of the region, personalities and letters of famous Russians like Fiodor Dostoevsky.
Another exhibit of the museum is located in a separate building that served as an office for another local trader - Orlov - in the mid 19th century and is devoted to the historical roles of the fortresses located in the Leningrad region displaying objects of archeological digs and remarkable models of strongholds.
The Church of the Holy Trinity in Ivangorod is 130 years old. It was built with funds and land donated by the renowned patron and philanthropist Baron Stieglitz and houses the burial-vault of the Stieglitz family. The building was designed by the architect A. Krakau. The church was built in the historic style, an interpretation of traditional 17th century Russian architecture. It is built of brick in the form of a cross with five cupolas. Above the west door there is a lancet and a conical tapestry with ten bells. The interior is remarkably refined and rich.
Walking along the old walls and towers, you can have a taste of 400 years’ history. The Russian screen version of Shakespeare’s “Hamlet”, directed by Grigory Kozintsev was shot here.
Ivangorod is just 131 km to the west from St.Petersburg. It is a borderline town between Russia and Estonia now. You can get there by car (highway St.Petersburg-Talinn), by bus (Bus Station ¹2, Obvodny Canal Emb.,32 and Baltiysky Railway Station) or by train (Baltiysky Railway Station).
